Above: Wells are still in use in Viscri; only the guest houses for tourists have indoor plumbing.
Top: View of the landscape surrounding Viscri. |
Prospects for the Future
The main forces working to shape the future of Viscri that were either observed or discussed in May 2007 include the dedicated Saxon population that still resides there, foreign and locally-based NGOs, government ministries, and the European Union. Certainly, the naming of Viscri as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1993, and the responsibilities that come along with receiving such a designation have already ensured that the unique architecture and well-preserved fortified church in the village will continue to be maintained at some level. The NGOs and other government ministries are already hard at work in the region to preserve the rich cultural heritage. However, EU membership carries with it the implication of many rules and regulations that do not necessarily translate well to life in a very simple, very rural village where life has not changed so much in the past few hundred years.
Organizations at Work
A review of the library at the Mihai Eminescu Trust guesthouse where we stayed during our time in Viscri provided a broad survey of information about the changes and developments throughout Saxon Transylvania over the past several years, with most documents being published since 2000. Scanning of the selection of literature published in English (a handful of articles and one more lengthy report) revealed a numerous listing of NGOs, foundations, and government ministries involved in restoration of the village buildings and economy. Leaders of three of these organizations (see links below) were present in the village during our stay.
Mihai Eminescu Trust
Fundatia ADEPT
Pro Patrimonio
My favorite: the wool mill in Viscri
Lingering Effects of Communism
Not only in Viscri, but throughout Romania, people are still working to regain property they owned that was lost to them during the process of collectivisation that happened under the Communist regime. Additionally, another "side-effect" of years of a government who, despite its many shortcomings, often, at least, provided a lifetime of stability to its citizens, in terms of employment, housing, food and pensions, is the attitude this left behind in many citizens, who understandably became used to being provided for. In a free-market economy, it is difficult for those who are not accustomed to it to go out and start a business, for there is a decided lack of entrepreneurial spirit.
Tourism, a Double-Edged Sword?
Without a doubt, a visit to a place like Viscri is a unique experience. To see a way of life most "modern" folks might not even imagine still exists is a wonderful thing, and it is easy to fall in love with the idealized, simplified life that time in Viscri shows the short-term visitor. However, Viscri faces many serious challenges in terms of development, economy, and education as it moves into the future and it is important to not be too romantic in one's vision of life in the village. Progress is coming slowly - the facades of the houses are being restored, providing training and employment to village residents in building and contstruction. Residents are learning how to sell their wares in the village and abroad. Tourism is a viable revenue stream for some members of the village who have been able to provide guest houses and meals to visitors.
However, some visitors come and fall in love with village life. Housing is relatively inexpensive by Western standards, and at least a few of the houses in Viscri have been purchased by foreign investors (one of which even by HRH The Prince of Wales). One is reminded that is a delicate balance that what makes life in Viscri unique is that the people who live there are living a life they have lived for a long time now, and not necessarily by choice. The remote, subsistence lifestyle led by most residents of Viscri is a difficult one, and one that I certainly would not be able to undertake without a good bit of training and education. As foreign investment comes into the region, on wonders how closely they consider the problems inherent in too many new Aspects of it are certainly worth preserving, but it will be a delicate balance in mixing the best of the "old" ways with at least some ease of the "new."
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